Growers in Panama are beginning the 2025-2026 harvest of the world’s most expensive coffee, the prized Geisha variety, while confronting significant climate instability that threatens yields. The harvest is now underway in the high-altitude regions of Boquete, Tierras Altas, and Renacimiento in Chiriquí province, the exclusive home of a coffee that shattered global price records last year.
In the 2025 Best of Panama (BOP) auction, a 20-kilogram lot of Geisha natural process coffee sold for an unprecedented $30,204 per kilogram to Dubai’s Julith Coffee. This sale cemented Panama’s status as the producer of the globe’s premier specialty coffee. Industry leaders now anticipate another high-quality harvest but warn that unpredictable weather patterns pose a serious risk to production volume.
Officials from leading estates express cautious optimism about the beans currently being picked, processed, and dried.
“Although the first beans have not yet reached a cupping table, we are seeing well-developed and mature beans,” said Ricardo Koyner, president of the Specialty Coffee Association of Panama (SCAP). [Translated from Spanish]
The first flavor profiles from this harvest will be known by late January, after necessary resting periods for fermentation and drying. The most anticipated lots, including those from the famed Cañas Verdes farm at Hacienda La Esmeralda which produced last year’s record-setting coffee, will be harvested later in February or March.
Altitude and Quality Define Panama’s Geisha Coffee
The exceptional quality of Panamanian Geisha coffee is intrinsically linked to the extreme elevations at which it is now cultivated. Producer Wilford Lamastus of Lamastus Family Estates notes a dramatic shift since the variety first gained fame.
When Geisha debuted at the BOP in 2004, it was grown at approximately 1,600 meters above sea level. The lot that broke the price record in 2025 was cultivated at 2,050 meters. This relentless pursuit of altitude, while intensifying flavor, comes with major agricultural challenges.
“When coffee is grown at these heights, production is lower per tree and it takes much longer to produce, up to seven years in some cases,” Lamastus explained. [Translated from Spanish] “Geisha is a tree with poor roots and little foliage, which has led the producer to adapt cultivation of this variety, from pruning to fertilization with more organic fertilizers.”
This meticulous, low-yield approach is focused entirely on quality for the competitive auction circuit. The BOP operates on tiny volumes, with each farm submitting its single best 20-kilogram lot for judgment by international cuppers. Rachel Peterson, Director of Sales, Marketing and Quality Control at Hacienda La Esmeralda, confirms producers are leveraging advanced processing methods from the very start of the harvest peak, which runs from January through March, to create distinct flavor profiles.
Koyner emphasizes the outsized impact of these small lots.
“They are very small quantities, but they are subject to very strong scrutiny from the world market and international judges who determine quality. Last year’s quality was exceptional in these small lots that go to auction and that is positive for the country because that impact spills over to the entire coffee industry and improves the perception of the name of Panama in the world market.” [Translated from Spanish]
Climate Instability Threatens Harvest Volume
The primary threat to this harvest is not quality but quantity. Industry leaders uniformly cite climate change-induced weather instability as their greatest challenge. The dry season, which typically runs from mid-December to April, has become unpredictable, with rain occurring during expected dry periods and vice versa.
“The problem is that the harvest must take place in summer and not when there are rains. If rain falls at these times, the fruit can fill with water and fall or split. This has a negative impact on the amount of production or on the quality. The climate is an important factor in coffee production,” stated Koyner. [Translated from Spanish]
This volatility is forcing a stark revision of production forecasts. Koyner anticipates a severe drop in output across the specialty sector.
“This year, we expect a relatively low production due to the climate issue. The climate has an impact on the productivity of the plant and we consider that there could be a general reduction of the order of 40% or 50% of production, compared to last year.” [Translated from Spanish]
Estimates vary by micro-region and farm. At Hacienda La Esmeralda, where the harvest is running two weeks early on one farm, Rachel Peterson projects a potentially smaller though still significant reduction. She calculates the yield drop could reach around 30%, noting the final figure heavily depends on conditions during the remaining picking window.
The combination of record-breaking prices and climate-driven scarcity creates a complex landscape for Ricardo Koyner and other Panamanian growers. They are tasked with maintaining an unparalleled standard of excellence for a global audience while adapting their centuries-old craft to a rapidly changing environment. The world will be watching the results of this harvest closely, with the next Best of Panama auction set to reveal whether the flavors can once again command historic prices, even from a diminished crop.